1 MAHARAJA RANJIT SINGH. 457
2 he was to go by way of the Hindu Kush. The object of his journey was
3 to obtain a knowledge of the condition of these countries and of the route
4 to them.* He was received with great distinction, and became the guest of
5 the Chevalier Monsieur Allard. He had several interviews with the Maharaja,
6 who received him with marked affability. The Mahardjdé expressed much
7 satisfaction at the interview he had lately had, for the first time, with the
8 Governor-General of India, and made enquiries regarding the scope and
9 object of Lieutenant Burnes’ approaching journey.
10 The parting entertainment was given by the Maharaja to his distinguish-
11 ed guest in the Palace of Mirrors, or Summan Burj, at night, when the
12 palace was superbly illuminated with wax tapers, bottles filled with water
13 of different colours being placed neav the lights, thus increasing the splen-
14 dour of the show. From the great hall, the ancient seat of the Moghal
15 emperors, which led in front to an arched colonade of marble, the traveller
16 was conducted to a small apartment, the bedroom of the Mahardjd, where
17 the festivities of the night were to take place. The Mahardaja’s bedstead,
18 which was placed at one end of the room, was entirely covered with gold,
19 the canopy being one massy sheet of the same metal. It stood on golden
20 stands, about ten inches high. The curtains consisted of Kashmir
21 shawls, embroidered with gold, and from the posts and legs of this
22 superb bedstead, to its branched candlesticks, everything was of gold. The
23 chairs for the guests, among whom were Captain Wade and Doctor Murray,
24 were of gold and silver. The royal entertainer freely circulated wine, distilled
25 from the grapes of Kabul, which is described as being of a very fiery nature,
26 and stronger than brandy. Ranjit became very entertaining in his cups, and
27 gave the foreigners an interesting account of his early exploits, mentioning
28 many circumstances connected with his private life. Three of his chiefs,
29 he said, had, at different times, fallen by his side; there were two mutinies
30 among his troops quelled by his own energy; and on one occasion he had to
31 challenge his adversary to settle the dispute by single combat. The
32 entertainment closed, long after midnight, with a sham fight among the
33 dancing-girls and a rich supper.
34 Lieutenant Burnes took leave of the Maharaja on the evening of the 10th
35 February on the parade ground, where his troops were collected to show what
36 progress they had made in throwing shells, He then dictated letters for the
37 chiefs of Peshdwar and Kabul, as well as several other personages beyond
38 the Indus, to ensure the British officer’s protection and honourable treatment
39 by the neighbouring chiefs and the marauding Khaibaris. He also issued
40 orders to all the chiefs and sardars between his capital and the frontier, en-
41 joining upon them the duty of treating the British officer honourably, and of
42 providing him with all necessaries. Then, stretching out his hand from the
43 elephant, he gave each member of the expedition a hearty shake and
44 bade him farewell. He particularly requested Lieutenant Burnes to write
45 to him often, and give him an account of the countries he might visit,
46 describing their politics and customs, and never to forget him, in whatever
47 region he might be. “Nor did we forget his request,” says the adventurous
48 and good-hearted Lieutenant Burnes, “when far from his territories. We
49 received letters from Ranjit Singh himself in the deserts of Tartary and in
50 Bokhara.” “T never quitted,” continues he, “ the presence of a native of
51 Asia with such impressions as I left this man: without education and without
52 * Lieut. Burnes was accompanied on this occasion by Mohan Lal, a Hindu lad of Kashmir, who
53 subsequently became known by the name of Aghd Hasan Jan, the Government pensioner at
54 Ludbiina. He was a student_of the Delhi College, and his work, styled A/fohan Lal's Travels
55 is well known to the public. His companion in the travels was Mahomad Ali, who had receive
56 his education in the Engineering Institution of Bombay.
57 The parting enter-
58 tainment.
59 Lieut. Burnes leaves
60 Tron 1th February,
61 His opinion of the
62 Maharaja.
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