1 35
2 the barking came from the opposite bank, to which we could not
3 pass. From the course of the river, however, we had known in
4 what direction Bagdad was situated ; and, travelling upwards,
5 we very soon reached a few black tents ; but the people were so
6 poor that they could not offer us any hospitality, as they had
7 food neither for us nor our horses. The only service they prof-
8 fered was to give us a guide, who brought us, after half-an-
9 hour’s walk, to the tent of the sheikh, where we met with a
10 very kind reception. The sheikh himself was at this time in
11 Bagdad, but in his absence his wife performed the duties of
12 hospitality. She ordered the servants to light a fire under the
13 large tent, where we dried and warmed ourselves, and were
14 served with fresh coffee and rice-pilaw. The servants took
15 charge of our horses, and after having taken my meal, I went to
16 sleep. A corner of the tent served me for my bed, and my
17 saddle-bags as a pillow. Before dawn, the Tartar awoke me,
18 saying: “ We must proceed on our journey.1’ I drowsily arose,
19 and at the same time my servant showed me that they had cut
20 through my saddle-bags on one side, and extracted the bundle
21 containing my best clothes. I remembered having heard, during
22 the night, some goats bleating outside the tent ; and probably
23 the thief had brought them there, that he might perform his
24 exploit with more security. The Tartar began to make a noise,
25 threatening to arrest the sheikh at Bagdad, and to make him pav
26 ten times the value of the stolen property, if they did not find
27 out the thief. They made researches, it is true, but without anv
28 good result. On the same day, towards evening, we arrived at
29 Bagdad, where I was informed that mv intended patient re-
30 quired no more medical assistance, as he was reposing quietly in
31 his grave.
32 At Bagdad I also performed several operations for the stone,
33 but I did not vaccinate, in consequence of being informed,
34 to my great astonishment, that several Christian ladies obtained
35 their livelihood by vaccinating. Provisions were at this time
36 so cheap at Bagdad, and the coin so bad, that one shilling
37 was valued at about five grusb (piaster); consequently, little
38 VOL. I.
39 F